Lassen Volcanic National Park: A first-timer’s guide plus 3-day itinerary
SHARING IS CARING!
Looking out the window as we drove up the road to explore Bumpass Hell, my jaw dropped when Lake Helen came into view. I have seen many beautiful lakes but none as stunning as this. The midday sun shining on the surface lent a silvery blue glimmer to the water that just leaves you captivated. It was hard to believe why we waited such a long time to visit Lassen National Park. Us and everyone else, it seems. Lassen Volcanic National Park, located 4 hours northeast of San Francisco, is one of California’s lesser visited national parks, with an annual 500k visitors (to compare, Yosemite National Park has approximately 4.5 million annual visitors).
The park is best known for Lassen Peak, a 10,457 foot volcano that unleashed its rage in 1915, devastating nearby areas. Today, it is partially covered in snow and ice with the peak getting the highest known winter snowfall amounts in California. The Visit Redding website describes it best -
“The park boasts incredible mountain scenery reminiscent of Yosemite as well as fascinating thermal wonders similar to Yellowstone with just a small fraction of visitors.”
We came to this park not expecting much but we left fascinated by its striking beauty and wanting to come back for more. This weekend getaway was truly unforgettable and one for the books. Oh, speaking of unforgettable, did I tell you that we were whacked by balls of falling ice (hail LOL) as we were hiking? More on that later….
Jump on over to the 3-day itinerary here BUT make sure you come back to read the entire post (lots of useful information 😃)
How to get to Lassen Volcanic National Park
Lassen Volcanic National Park is located in northern California, approximately four hours northeast of San Francisco. The park is accessed via Hwy 44 (to the north) or Hwy 36 (to the south). The nearest airports are Redding, California; Sacramento, California; and Reno, Nevada. As of this writing, there is no public transportation to the park.
Best Time to Visit Lassen Volcanic National Park
There is a very narrow window to visit Lassen National Park. The roads in the park typically don’t open until June when the snow melts and come fall, snow starts up again so some areas will be inaccessible again around November or even October sometimes. And so, the ideal time to visit would be between July and September. Always check the snow conditions before planning your trip and always have a backup plan in case of road closures. The National Park Services website has current and up-to-date information on snow conditions in the park.
What to DO/SEE inside Lassen Volcanic National Park
Park operational hours: Open 24 hours/day, 365 days/year
Fee: Vehicle $35
Lassen Annual Pass $55
Kohm Yah-mah-nee Visitor Center
Operational hours: 9am-5pm daily (Jun 19-Oct 31); Wed-Sun (Nov 1-Apr 30)
You might want to start in this LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certified building. It gets its name from the Mountain Maidu phrase for Lassen Peak, meaning “snow mountain”. The Kohm Yah-mah-nee Visitor Center offers interactive exhibits (temporarily closed due to COVID-19) about geology and culture of the area. There is a bookstore for your map and guide needs as well as a gift shop for souvenir shopping.
Lake Helen
Parking: Lot/Road
Pets: Yes and No (Yes in picnic area, not in lake)
C’mon. Look at this. No explanation needed.
This is a high elevation lake so it remains frozen and covered in deep snow for most of the year. It is fed by melted snow and ice so even into mid-summer (we were there in August), the water was still chilly. If your body is averse to swimming in icy water, boating or kayaking are good ways to enjoy this sapphire blue lake too.
Fur babies are not permitted in or near the lake but they are welcome in the picnic area if they are leashed. The views from the picnic area are unbeatable. There is a good number of well spaced tables in the picnic area so you can enjoy your picnic lunch without having to worry about people waiting for your table. Speaking of picnics, check out this picnic backpack that always travels with us. It has all the picnic essentials you need, an ample insulated food compartment, a detachable insulated wine/bottle cooler, and a waterproof blanket. I’ve switched out the plastic wine glasses with silicone ones to make it travel-friendly. I love that they come in different colors too for each member of the family.
After lunch, enjoy a nice walk along the lake taking in the views of Lassen Peak and Chaos Crags. The Lake Helen parking lot is small so be prepared to wait for a spot. Restrooms are available by the lot.
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Bumpass Hell is an assault on your senses long before you step on the boardwalk. The smell of rotten eggs engulfs you and stays with you long after you leave the area. If you are highly sensitive to smells, it might trigger a headache so be prepared. It is the largest hydrothermal area in the park. The largest fumarole (a vent in the Earth’s surface from which steam and volcanic gases are emitted) in the park, the Big Boiler, has been measured as high as 322 degrees F (161 degrees C), making it one of the hottest fumaroles in the world.
The steam heated waters are typically acidic and are not safe. This, unfortunately, was experienced first-hand by pioneer Kendall Bumpass, who was exploring the hydrothermal area when suddenly, the thin soil broke causing him to fall into a boiling pool, severely burning his leg. Thus, the trail was named Bumpass Hell. Today, there is a series of boardwalks designed to protect visitors. If you stick to the trail and stay on the boardwalk, no need to worry about suffering the same fate as Mr. Bumpass.
A flat meandering walk through the forest welcomes you to this trail. Do NOT be deceived by it. This trail was much more intense than I anticipated. Hiking boots are highly recommended as you will have to navigate muddy and rocky terrain throughout the trail and a slippery stone staircase on your way back. I highly recommend these waterproof hiking boots. They are sturdy and protect my ankle from rolling. I have used them hiking in the rain and trekking through mud and they have never failed me. Good hiking shoes might cost a bit more but they are worth every penny. I promise you, your feet will thank you after a day of heavy hiking. Size up and try them on with thicker socks to ensure you get a comfortable fit.
Bogey uses these Salomons and they are highly recommended as well. Alaina has used Salomons in the past but has recently been wearing these Mountain Warehouse boots and liking them. She is very particular about shoes and would much rather wear sneakers but I prefer for her to wear shoes with ankle support on longer hikes. Because A outgrows her shoes so fast, apart from Amazon, I always check out REI, Columbia and Mountain Warehouse websites for sales to score some great deals on shoes for her.
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We didn’t have hiking poles but it would have probably made the journey easier. Alaina and Bogey had no problem with this trail but I found myself completely out of breath at times. Drink plenty of water and take frequent breaks if you need to. Alaina carries her own water bottle in her backpack when we hike so we give her a smaller kids version of our Thermoflask water bottles so it won’t be such a heavy load. On longer hikes, we might choose to bring our plastic BPA-free Camelbak bike bottles for less weight.
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The large roaring waterfall surrounded by ferns and foliage did not disappoint. There are fenced overlooks giving you a clear view of the 30-ft falls but, if you are more adventurous, you can go down to the base of the falls to get a more majestic view. Be careful of the slippery rocks and small pebbles and make sure you have solid footing at all times. You can hang around here to rest before trekking the steep ascent back.
This was one of our most memorable hikes as we were pummeled by hail midway to the falls(!). When we parked our car and saw the dark clouds looming above, we knew we would be in for an adventure - hiking in the rain (which we have done once before). What we didn’t expect were these tiny balls of ice hitting us from every angle. I had to keep my mouth closed because I was worried I would crack my teeth (I’m a dentist, sorry, teeth are always my concern lol 🤣 ) .
There is no parking lot here so we parked on the road. Some areas are narrow so do remind the littles to be careful getting out of the car. I did not see any bathrooms at the trailhead but we don’t really stress out about bathrooms anymore since we got these Travel John disposable urinals. We have them in our cars and our backpacks whenever we go hiking. They have been lifesavers on multiple occasions.
Like all the trails inside Lassen National Park, fur babies are not permitted in the Kings Creek Falls trail. Here is a helpful printable trail guide.
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Summit Lake
Parking: Lot
Pets: Yes and no (Yes in picnic area, not in lake)
We came here towards the end of our first day so it was a wonderful end to our day. We came prepared with our inflatable lounger so we could leisurely float and relax after a long day of driving and sightseeing. There are shallow areas though if you just choose to dip your feet and feel the refreshing water on your legs.
There is a day use area with bathrooms and picnic tables. Picnic tables were a little closer together than what I would have preferred especially since this lake is connected to a busy campground. Luckily, we came around 4pm and people probably already left for the day or have retired to their campsites so we had the area almost to ourselves. Fur babies are allowed in the campground and picnic area but like all other areas of Lassen National Park, not in the water. The bathrooms have flushing toilets and potable water. Have your bug spray on hand as mosquitoes are quite vicious around here. We use a deet-free kind like this Repel insect repellant.
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Reflection Lake
Reflection Lake Trail
Roundtrip distance: 0.6 mile loop
Parking: Lot (museum) across trail
Pets: No
The Reflection Lake Trail is a 0.6 mile lightly trafficked loop with magnificent views and reflections of Chaos Crags and Mt Lassen along the north end. This trail has no signs but having read somewhere that this intersected with the Lily Pond Trail, we just started at the Lily Pond trailhead and stayed along the shoreline of Reflection Lake. Doing that made the hike slightly longer but still very relaxing and easy. We highly recommend this hike especially if you have small children as it was fairly short and mostly flat but offered rewarding views. Reflection Lake Trail is just right after the northwest entrance of the park across Loomis museum.
Loomis Museum
Operational hours: 9am-5pm
Fee: Free
The museum is small but had a good-sized collection of Native American baskets and some period photographs of Lassen Peak’s 1915 eruption. We were able to get our national park patch there. It had a selection of park souvenirs, although not as extensive as the Manzanita Lake Camper store. We parked in the museum lot and walked across the street to the Lily Pond trailhead. The bathrooms were clean and well-maintained.
Lassen Peak
Lassen Peak Trail
Roundtrip distance: 5 miles
Parking: Lot
Pets: No
Lassen Peak, or Mount Lassen, is the largest lava dome (plug volcano) on Earth. Lava domes are formed by thick, glue-like magma flowing effusively onto the surface of the volcano and piling up around the vent. The lava that forms domes is often too thick and sticky to flow very far, and thus instead pile up high around the vent forming a plug. Its most powerful explosive eruption was on May 22, 2015, devastating nearby areas and spread volcanic ash as far as 280 miles to the east. This is still very much considered an active volcano.
We did not do this hike because this is rated as difficult on Alltrails and we (actually, I, LOL) prefer not doing difficult hikes. Alaina and Bogey would have probably conquered this had we gone. This is rated difficult because of the high altitude, steep ascent, sometimes rocky terrain and difficult switchbacks. There are no trees for shade so be prepared for direct sunlight the entire trip. If you decide to do this trail, altitude sickness and heatstroke are possibilities so prepare accordingly with altitude pills and constant hydration. Views from the top might be well worth the effort of the climb. We were more than happy seeing spectacular views of the peak from several areas of the park.
Chaos Crags
Chaos Crags Trail
Roundtrip distance: 4 miles
Parking: Lot
Pets: No
Chaos Crags is the youngest group of lava domes in Lassen Volcanic National Park. It consists of six primary summits, the highest of which is 8,530 feet high and like Lassen Peak, are plug volcanoes. It forms a dramatic backdrop to Manzanita Lake and is one of the most imposing scenes inside the park.
I always consult www.alltrails.com (love the app too!) whenever we plan to go hiking and according to their website, the Crags trail is a 4 mile heavily trafficked out and back trail that features a lake and is rated as moderate. We had limited time in Lassen and had to choose between Kings Creek Falls and Crags Trail, so naturally, the falls wins, hands down! Is it just me or feeling that refreshing mist from a falls after a strenuous hike is so rewarding and just beats any other activity? 😊 This will be a definite must-do on our next trip, though. There is a parking lot as well as bathrooms at the trailhead.
Manzanita Lake
Manzanita Lake Trail
Roundtrip distance: 1.6 miles
Parking: Lot
Pets: Yes and No (Yes in picnic area and campground, not along trail)
Manzanita Lake is one of the beautiful lakes inside Lassen National Park and a favorite for photographers looking to capture Lassen Peak’s dramatic cone reflecting in the lake’s blue water. This lake was formed 300 years ago when Manzanita Creek was barricaded by a rock avalanche from the northwest slope of the Chaos Crags, which also resulted in the debris formation known as Chaos Jumbles.
The trail which circles around the lake is a favorite among families with small children as the terrain is flat and offers numerous opportunities for duck, geese and otter sightings. Glimpses of woodpeckers, deer and even mountain lions have been reported in this area too. At the time of our trip, the lake was closed to swimming, wading and soft sided flotation devices due to aggressive river otters. There are kayaks available for rent, though, so you can still enjoy being in the water. The lake is open for fishing (catch and release only), and has rainbow, brown and brook trout. Check out the National Park Services website for more fishing information in Manzanita Lake. Enjoying a picnic lunch by the lake is also one of the favorite things to do here.
Boiling Springs Lake
Boiling Springs Lake Trail
Roundtrip distance: 2.3 mile loop
Parking: Road
Pets: No
One of the two thermal areas in the Warner Valley region of Lassen National Park, Boiling Springs Lake is the largest active feature in the park and one of the largest geothermal lakes in the world. Brave the foul smell and you will be rewarded with a spectacular view of a steaming blue-green lake nestled amongst tall pine trees. Steam vents below the lake keep this lake a steady 125 degrees F all year. It is surrounded by steep slopes preventing easy access to the water’s edge. The trail is an easy loop which is mostly flat and lightly trafficked. It is highly advised to stay on the trail at all times because of the unstable ground and highly acidic boiling water.
What else is there to see inside Lassen?
We only had a weekend to explore Lassen National Park but if you have a few more days to spare, you could also check these out:
Sulphur Works
Cinder Cone - will make time for this one the next time we go
Mill’s Creek Falls - trail guide
Brokeoff Mountain - trail guide
Emerald Lake
What to DO/SEE outside of Lassen Volcanic National Park
There are a number of interesting sights to see outside Lassen National Park but with our limited time, we were only able to explore these areas.
Subway Cave Lava Tube
Roundtrip distance: 0.3 miles
Approximate time: Less than an hour
Parking: Lot
Pets: No
Operational hours: Dawn to dusk (April-October)
Fee: Free, donations welcome
A lava tube is a channel or groove in the earth that is formed by flowing lava from a volcanic vent that moves beneath the hardened surface of a lava flow. The hardened surface is formed when a low-viscosity lava flow develops a continuous and hard crust, which thickens and forms a roof above the still-flowing lava stream. The Subway Cave Lava Tube is the largest lava tube formed by lava flow following the 1915 eruption.
The cave is pitch black so do not forget to bring a flashlight or better yet, a headlamp or neck lights for hands-free lighting. Wear hiking/sturdy shoes as the cave floor is jagged and has deep indentations in certain areas and in the winter and spring, might be slippery and muddy as well. Because the cave maintains a cool 46 degrees F temperature inside, layer up with a light jacket.
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Highlights of the cave:
Devil’s Kitchen - opening of the cave
Stubtoe Hall - where jagged terrain begins (judging from the name of this section of the cave, I’m sure you can pretty much tell that flip-flops are not recommended footwear here lol)
Wind Tunnel - narrow passage where the cold chill begins to set in
Lucifer’s Cul-de-sac - when you come to a split, take a left and you will find yourself in this chamber with cool and unique rock formations
The Sanctum - just past the cul-de-sac, this is the largest chamber in the cave with 15-foot ceilings and two small “volcanoes” formed years ago when gases and molten lava bubbled up from the cave floor.
Lavacicle Lane - look up and you will see tiny stalactites on the ceiling
Rattlesnake Collapse - here you will start to see some light and the exit of the cave just ahead
As you ascend the stairs, the view opens up to a short trail leading to the parking lot. Dense thickets of shrubs, bushes and small trees surround you as you make that short trek to your car.
Click here to access the cave’s 2-page Self Guided Trail Information and Map PDF document you can print out and take with you.
We highly recommend this short but educational activity for families. It received great feedback from our usually “bored” 10-year old. Parking is ample enough as this attraction doesn’t seem to get too busy. There are bathrooms before the entrance to the cave.
Lake Almanor
If you have an extra day and you would like to venture out of Lassen National Park, then Lake Almanor would be a good option. This is a large man made lake located about an hour away from the south entrance of Lassen National Park. It is not as pretty or as clean as Lake Helen or even Summit Lake but it has 52 miles of coastline with a lot of activities that will make each person in the family happy - golf or fishing for dad, kayak and stand up paddle boarding for the kids, and of course, just laying out and relaxing in the sun for mom.
You can rent boats in Majors Outpost or kayaks and paddle boards in Lake Almanor Kayaks. Make sure to call ahead to make reservations especially if it’s the busier summer months.
There was a lot of room to spread out and lots of trees to offer some shade and privacy. This was almost 2 hours away from where we were staying so we probably could have skipped this and instead explored more inside Lassen park. If you are staying close to this lake though, it might be worth a visit.
Where to Eat
There are very limited dining options inside the park so if any of these do not appeal to you, it might be best to check Tripadvisor for restaurants/food establishments in the city you are based in during your Lassen trip. There are various dining options in the surrounding cities of Mineral, Mill Creek, Chester, Shingletown and Old Station. Since we camped during this trip, we cooked our dinners in the campsite and bought sandwiches for picnic lunches for our daily excursions.
Lassen Cafe and Gift (inside the park)
Operational hours: 9am-5pm daily (Jun 19-Oct 12); 11am-2pm Sat and Sun (Oct 13-May 20)
Located inside Kohm Yah-mah-nee visitor center, they offer a variety of items including soups, salads, fresh fruits, hot or cold sandwiches, as well as a variety of beverages (including espresso drinks) and soft-serve ice cream.
Manzanita Lake Camper Store (inside the park)
Operational hours: 8am-8pm (Jun-Oct)
Located at the entrance to the Manzanita Lake Campground, they offer ready-to-go meals and picnic supplies such as hot and cold sandwiches, snacks, basic grocery items, hot and cold beverages, and ice cream. Microwave ovens are also available for use if you need them.
Drakesbad Guest Ranch (inside the park)
Located at the southeast end of Lassen National Park, this lodge serves fresh home-cooked meals that are by reservation only. Sack lunches are also available upon request.
Portside Fish and Chips (Anderson, CA)
Operational hours: 11am-8pm daily
This is a good place to stop and eat on the way to Lassen National Park from the Bay Area. Service was excellent, portions were HUGE and prices were super affordable.
Cravings (Chester, CA)
Operational hours: 8am-2pm Mon, The, Fri; 7am-2pm Sat and Sun; Closed Tue and Wed
We stopped by this place to have brunch on the way to Lake Almanor. Food was good and the prices reasonable. There is a cute little bookstore attached to the restaurant and we spent some time perusing their book selections.
Where to Stay
Accommodation options are sparse inside Lassen Volcanic National Park but numerous communities around the park offer year-round lodging options. To see a map of cities around the park, visit
Too bad the teepee was booked during our stay. We like trying out unique accommodations when available so that would have been an experience. Although this was a small campground, the campsites are well-spaced so you didn’t feel as if the campers were on top of each other.
You can bring your fishing gear and fish in the small creek right next to the campground. We spent a good 20 minutes playing a game of hide and seek with the resident otter in the creek. That kept the little one entertained for a bit. Mary (I believe she was the manager) was very accommodating and always there to help. Do not expect a glamping experience as accommodations (sites, cabins, teepee) are super rustic. There are no bear lockers in this campground so bear proof containers are something you might want to remember to bring when you stay here. In spite of the bare-bones feel of this campground, we truly enjoyed our stay here and would recommend this. We would probably stay here again the next time we visit Lassen National Park. To make reservations, visit their website.
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READ NEXT: To save you the headache of figuring out what to pack for that camping trip, check out my post Family Camping Made Easy: PLUS Free Printable Essentials Packing Checklist on camping packing essentials plus a free printable camping checklist AND of course, camping tips from my post 20 Ingenious Game-changing Camping Hacks
Three Day Itinerary
I have found throughout our years of traveling that, to avoid tantrums and breakdowns (both child and hubs 😆), I try to balance our days with an activity (or two, depends on how strenuous it is) and a break or some leisure/lazy time just to enjoy the area. Tweak this itinerary as you wish but I think this is a good starting point. Also, as with any other trip, it’s always wise to check and call ahead before you go to confirm hours of restaurants and attractions (in case of any changes) you plan to visit.
DAY 1
Try to get to the area by 10am. This would mean leaving San Francisco at 6am. Grab breakfast somewhere along the way and bring plenty of snacks for the long drive. Gas stations are limited in this remote area so make sure you fill up prior to entering the park. Click on this link to see a map of gas stations in the area.
1st stop: Start the day with a quick educational trip to the Subway Cave Lave Tube.
2nd stop: Head on over to the northwest entrance of Lassen Volcanic National Park. Park in Loomis Museum parking lot, hike Reflection Lake Trail, then check out the museum after.
Thrifty Tip
We get a National Park Annual Pass ($80) every year. The pass pays for itself with just 3 visits to any national park. If you have a 4th grader, he/she gets a free annual pass so he/she can take your entire family for free! Get your 4th grader’s free pass here.
3rd stop: Load up your picnic backpack and grab your picnic lunch essentials in Manzanita Lake Camper Store then head on over Manzanita Lake picnic area for a late lunch and lake activities such as fishing or kayaking. Enjoy your lunch as you get a taste of dramatic views of Chaos Crags and Lassen Peak from this lake.
Because we are usually exhausted on first days of trips, we usually end the day early and head back to the campsite/hotel to check in and have an early dinner.
If you took an extra dose of caffeine this morning, you might still be up to hiking Chaos Crags or checking out the Devastated Area Trail.
4th stop (OPTIONAL): Hike Chaos Crags or Devastated Area Trail.
DAY 2
Today you will enter the park through the southwest entrance.
1st stop: Kohm Yah-mah-nee Visitor Center is just beyond the entrance.
Grab your picnic lunch essentials in Lassen Cafe and Gift inside the visitor center before you start the day. Food offerings are limited October through April.
Thrifty Tip
Make your own sandwiches before you leave your campsite/cabin/hotel. Always try to remember to bring water in your own water bottle - not only good for the Earth, good for your wallet too. 😀 All these little expenses can add up. When camping, we bring big refillable water jugs with spouts for drinking so we can refill our water bottles. Some parks will have water fountains but we just come prepared.
2nd stop: Sulphur Works for a quick introduction to roaring fumaroles and boiling mud pots. Get your nose acclimated to the rotten egg stench here. You will encounter a lot more of that as we head on over to our third stop.
3rd stop: Bumpass Hell Trail. This trail is closed throughout spring and often into early summer due to snow. Opening dates vary every year so keep checking the website once June rolls around so you can plan accordingly.
4th stop: Lake Helen, which is a hop, skip and jump away from Bumpass Hell Trail will make you forget the trauma you just subjected your nose to. Enjoy your picnic lunch here. This is my favorite part of the park and I’m pretty sure it will be yours, too. You can choose to end the day here or if you’re feeling more adventurous, try exploring the Brokeoff Mountain Trail or Mills Creek Falls Trail.
5th stop (OPTIONAL): Brokeoff Mountain Trail or Mills Creek Falls Trail
DAY 3
Enter the park through the southwest entrance to explore your first stop.
1st stop: Kings Creek Falls. For best photos, plan to arrive early to get the morning light. Also, to grab those coveted parking spots close to the trailhead. Remember that parking here is along the road so there are very limited spots and if you get here midday, expect to park quite a ways from the trailhead. If you have a picnic lunch, a good area to enjoy it would be at the Kings Creek picnic area, where they have a parking lot with picnic tables. Otherwise, you can opt to have lunch in
2nd stop: Drakesbad Guest Ranch. Reservations only. Call (530) 230-3901 or visit their website to plan ahead.
3rd stop: Boiling Springs Lake. Check this out as this is one of the largest geothermal lakes in the world.
4th stop: After a whirlwind day, enjoy lounging or boating in Summit Lake. By late afternoon (4-5pm), you could get lucky and most of the people would be gone for the day. You can have the opportunity to experience the tranquility of the area. A perfect day(trip)-ender! 😃
Woo-hoo! Cross another one off your National Parks trip list!
RELATED: Dreaming of visiting one of the most popular parks in California? Check out my post on an Epic One-Day Kid-Friendly Itinerary: Yosemite National Park.
3 days is definitely not enough time to experience all the beauty this park has to offer but it’s a start. Sooooo, are you ready to have a “blast” in Lassen Volcanic National Park? I would love to hear from you. Let me know what you think in the comments below.
-Ellie
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