Whale Shark Swimming Adventure in Donsol, Philippines
Image courtesy of Olga Tsai via Unsplash
SHARING IS CARING!
UPDATED POST: May 10, 2022
In 2016, our group of 10 flew to the Philippines to embark on an adventure of a lifetime. We all agreed that a whale shark interaction was a must-do activity so I started researching responsible and ethical whale shark experiences. We decided to go with the Donsol whale shark interaction and I will let you know later on in this post why we chose Donsol over another popular whale shark destination in the Philippines.
Donsol is a small fishing village in the southernmost province of Sorsogon in the Luzon region of the Philippines that has increasingly risen in popularity because of these whale sharks. It has been recognized as the “Whale Shark Capital of the World”. These gentle giants, or butanding, as they are locally called, populate the waters from November to June with February to April being the best times to see them. Whale sharks cruise these waters because their primary food sources, plankton and algae, are abundant in Donsol River, which feeds into Donsol Bay.
The whale shark, which can grow up to a length of 41 feet and a weight of 43,000 pounds or more, is the largest fish in the world. They have a flattened head, characteristic dark gray skin with white spots among pale vertical and horizontal stripes and a white belly. I have not touched a whale shark but their skin is said to be very hard and rough to the touch. In spite of their massive size and intimidating appearance, they are usually docile and are not a threat to humans. They are filter feeders, not predators, unlike most other sharks, so no need to worry about you winding up as lunch.
WHALE SHARK INTERACTION
Since we were a large group unfamiliar with the area, we decided to enlist the help of a tour company to help with our airport transfers and the activities we wanted to do in Donsol, mainly whale shark interaction, a Legazpi City tour and the firefly tour/evening river cruise. We booked with Whale Shark Adventures and Tours and got a pretty sweet deal.
Thrifty tip
Choose what activities you would like to do on your trip and check whether you can bundle them to get a better price than booking each individual activity separately. If you are traveling with a bunch of people, it doesn’t hurt to ask tour operators if they have a group discount as well. You will almost always get a better deal.
Beach in front of Elysia Beach Resort
The day started really early. We were picked up at 630am from our hotel, taken to the Dive Center to pick up fins and snorkels (included in our tour package) and were in the Donsol Tourist Center in Dancalan by 715am. If you are doing this on your own, it is pretty easy to get motorized tricycles to take you to the visitor center for a minimal fee or depending on your hotel location, walk to the center. Bogey and I have our own snorkel and masks so we only needed to rent the fins. I know that it adds to our luggage weight but I just feel more comfortable using my own snorkel and mask than a mask that’s been used by someone else. We’ve had ours for a while but here’s a set (with fins!) of the same brand.
Tourist Center located in Dancalan
Registration fees are Php300 (about $6) for foreigners and Php100 (about $2) for Filipinos and local residents with ACR card). Cash only.
Boat fee is Php3500 for a boat (maximum 6 people) inclusive of a BIO (Butanding Interaction Officer) who acts as your guide. Cash only.
Thrifty tip
Always make sure you change your currency in your local bank or credit union for the best rates before you travel. If you run out of cash during your trip, try a local bank or your bank’s ATM network. Airport kiosks and stores will charge you high fees for poor exchange rates. Hotel currency exchange is worse. A lot of island restaurants and stores will not accept credit cards.
There was a short briefing and video about whale sharks and code of conduct. A board shows the number of sightings each day for the month. They do not guarantee sightings of whale sharks so you might want to prepare to come back another day or go home without seeing one :(
Boats ready to go
Our BIO, spotter and captain then took us out on the boat to begin our adventure. Ten minutes into the boat ride, our two boats split up. There were a couple of boats out, apart from our two boats, but all boats were far apart and did not feel clustered at all.
BIO and spotter
We have been in the water for almost two hours and we were losing hope that we would see a whale shark that day but suddenly, the spotter sees a dark figure looming in the water. Yes! A whale shark! The boat cruised slowly towards the shadow and the BIO signaled for us to jump in the water. The turbid water made it difficult to see underwater and it took a while for our eyes to adjust and see the whale shark’s massive figure swimming just below us. There it was, a baby whale shark about 15 feet in length who playfully swam with us for a few good minutes.
Swimming for what seemed like an eternity (which really was just a few minutes) a few feet away from this enormous creature did not send chills up my spine like I thought it would. Instead, I felt a sense of peace watching it cruise along with not a care in the world as our group of 5 watched in awe. It was so surreal and definitely one of the most unforgettable moments of my life.
We were told to steer clear of the tail as one flick of his tail could seriously injure you. You have to be a strong swimmer to keep up with the whale shark so fins are definitely necessary. I was the weakest swimmer in our group and it helped that I told the BIO because he stayed by my side the whole time in the water and pulled me alongside him. Those beautiful images you see online of whale sharks swimming with humans? Good luck capturing those. When he was done teasing and playfully swimming with us, he immediately dove deeper into the ocean. It happened in a few seconds and he was out of sight in a snap. I could imagine divers getting those images but for us, it was tough to get clear photos/videos. This is what our first whale shark interaction looked like:
Our second interaction was about 15 minutes later, and this time, with an adult shark measuring about 25 feet or so. It was over as soon as it started. As soon as we jumped into the water, we saw a flash of gray, it wiggled its tail and dove deep into the ocean.
We used my trusty Olympus camera for the photos and videos we took underwater. I have had this camera for almost 5 years and to me, it still produces quality images whether in a pool or the ocean. The murky water, in this case, did not make for crystal clear photos of our adventure. Great images or not, we were there for the experience and let me tell you, it was a thrill like no other. This is a newer version of my TG-4 camera.
Olympus Tough underwater ocean image
Although this might be fascinating for children to see, I would not really recommend this activity for younger kids. They would have to be pretty powerful swimmers to be able to keep pace with and avoid the whale shark at the same time. It might end up being a stressful undertaking for both you and your child. However, if you are confident that your child can meet the challenge, this might prove to be a delightful and unforgettable experience for your family.
WHAT TO PACK
Rash guard - On snorkeling and boating adventures, we always pack our rash guards with UPF. I like these zip up rash guards - full zip and fhalf zip because they are easier to slip on and take off than regular rash guards.
Water shoes - You could use flip flops but water shoes really are the way to go for water adventures. They stay on your feet and has good grip to keep you stable on slippery surfaces.
Sunscreen - The sun is intense so pack that sunscreen! We prefer using mineral reef-safe sunscreen because compounds in chemical sunscreens can add to the damage and bleaching of hard corals. Coral reef bleaching is real and very serious. Coral reefs are home to 25% of the world's marine species with some being home to species that cannot be found anywhere else on Earth so it’s important to protect them and keep them viable to prevent wiping out whole ecosystems. I always check the label and use only mineral or “physical” sunscreens with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as the active ingredients. If we are going to be out in the sun for long periods, we like to use lip protection too like the Badger lip balm with sunscreen.
Insect repellant - By the same token, I have stopped using DEET-containing products because the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) rates DEET under Toxicity Category III - slightly toxic to birds, fish and aquatic invertebrates. We use plant-based, DEET-free Repel. I find that the eucalyptus smell is a little intense out of the bottle so I have Alaina wear a mask or cover her nose during application. The intense smell dissipates after a few seconds.
Sun hat - If you are like me and wish to protect your face from the sun, you probably should bring a sun hat too. This is packable and has a UPF 50 sun protection rating.
Swimsuit
Towels - Technical towels are quick-drying, super light and fold small so they don’t take up too much room in your luggage.
Snorkel - I’m a bit of a germaphobe so even if this takes up a lot of room in our luggage, we always bring our own snorkel set.
Underwater camera - We like not having to worry about our cellphones falling in the water so we chose to invest in an underwater camera. At 4-5 years old, our camera still delivers not only top-notch underwater images but high quality landscape images as well. The most recent model of our Olympus Tough camera is the Olympus TG-6. GoPro cameras are also available for rent in the snorkel gear shop across the Visitor Center in Dancalan. If you do purchase an underwater camera, get the float strap. This has saved our camera many times from falling to the bottom of the ocean lol.
Pelican case - Our watertight, crushproof Pelican hard case keeps our electronics and valuables safe and dry.
Dry bag - Because who wants to wear wet clothes and shoes on the drive back home from your fun water adventure? We don’t (lol)! Dry bags keep your gear from getting wet. Once we’ve changed into dry clothing from the bag, we stuff our wet clothes and water shoes inside.
Dry clothes
HOW TO GET THERE
From Manila, take a 1-hr flight to Legazpi City. From Legazpi City, you can either take an air-conditioned public van for for 1.5 hours or a jeepney which would take you about 2 hours. A jeepney is the quintessential Filipino transport experience. It’s cheap (70Php/around $1.40) but it can get pretty hot since it is open and has no air-conditioning. An air-conditioned public van is still a very low-priced option at 100Php (around $2) but slightly inconvenient as it only leaves Legazpi City when it is full of passengers. Note that last departures for both vans and jeepneys are 5pm daily. If you are a large group like us, you can opt to rent a private van which costs around 1500-2500Php per van.
Thrifty Tip
If you have 9-10 people in your party, just go with a public van. Since your group will fill up the van, you will be able to depart as soon as your group is ready. At 100Php each, the trip will just cost your group 1000Php, still cheaper than renting a private van.
If you have the time, stay a day or two in Legazpi City. There’s a lot of interesting places to see in the area like the most active volcano in the Philippines, the Mayon Volcano, famous for its perfectly symmetric cone. I will get to writing a post on a one day itinerary for Legazpi City soon :)
Elysia Beach Resort
WHERE TO STAY
Donsol is a popular tourist attraction so there are many hotels to choose from. We chose to stay in Elysia Beach Resort and would probably not stay anywhere else when we are in Donsol. This beachfront hotel’s rooms were clean, comfortable and air-conditioned. The grounds and pool were well-kept. The beach was disappointing but offered fabulous sunset views. Along the beach and around the pool, there were multiple seating and lounging areas that provided plenty of relaxation and quiet time. The hotel never felt crowded even though we knew it was at full occupancy. The complimentary mid-afternoon snack of cookies and fruit was a pleasant surprise. But truly, the best part of the stay was the exceptional service from the entire hotel staff. They were hardworking, efficient and really went above and beyond to cater to their guests’ requests. From check-in to check-out, this hotel did not disappoint and would be my top recommendation when in Donsol.
WHERE TO EAT
Elysia Beach Resort
We ate here two out of the three nights we were in Donsol. The food, although not the finest we’ve had in the Philippines, was still very delicious and flavorful. They do have the best turon (deep fried banana rolls), though. As I’m writing this, I’m harkened back to lounging in front of the beach, sand in my toes, taking my first bite of that sweet and flaky roll filled with warm ube, jackfruit and banana. MOUTH.WATERING.STOMACH.GROWLING :) Excuse me while I get a snack… lol.
Ok back to reality… The staff accommodates requests when possible and really go out of their way to make sure you are happy with your meal.
Tropical fruits in season: Mango, star apple (caimito locally) and longkong (lanzones locally). Yummmmmmmmmm
BARacuda
A short walk from our hotel, BARacuda serves the catch of the day using simple recipes that bring out the delicate natural taste of the fish/seafood. The great location on the beach and the chill atmosphere is the perfect place to unwind after a long day of whale shark adventuring. Juliet, the delightful owner, hostess, AND chef was very friendly and welcoming. The calamansi mojito was mediocre and quite pricey but other than that, it was an enjoyable dinner.
View from Elysia Beach Resort restaurant
Why choose Donsol?
Why would we choose an experience that has no guarantees of whale shark sightings? Easy, because of responsible travel! These days, getting that perfect Instagram shot seems to pervade the travel industry. I’m all for that especially since I have a travel blog and beautiful imagery is definitely expected. I feel though that it should not be done at the expense of endangering or disrupting wildlife. Bogey and I have decided to make conscientious travel decisions and that includes making an effort to only observe and not disturb animals in their natural habitats.
I had a nurse shark interaction in Belize during my much younger years where the animals were being lured by food and at that time, being my naive younger self, I did not find any harm in that. Not my proudest moment I know, but now that I’m older and should I say wiser (haha ok, ok, maybe just more aware), I would steer clear and even recommend for others to avoid wildlife interactions such as those. Feeding animals disrupts their natural diet and behavior which could be disastrous for their well-being and even survival of the species. Unfortunately, in some places in the Philippines like Oslob, this is exactly what they are doing to the whale sharks guaranteeing sightings year-round and longer human interactions. Because the whale sharks associate food with the boats in this area, they often swim up close to the boats which in turn, leads to injured fins and tails from the boat propellers. Having food available year-round for these animals here disturbs their natural migratory and mating patterns and could seriously impact their future in our oceans.
Donsol, on the other hand, has partnered with the WWF (World Wildlife Fund Organization) to ensure protection of these endangered whale sharks from people and boats. There are rules to be followed in order to have a respectful interaction with the whale sharks and when we were there, these were strictly enforced by the boaters and our guides.
Code of Conduct for Responsible Whale Shark Eco-tourism:
Do not touch or ride the whale shark.
Do not restrict the movement of the shark or impede its natural path.
The recommended distance from the whale shark is 3 meters from the tail.
Do not undertake flash photography.
Do not use scuba, scooters, jet skis or any motorized underwater propulsion.
A maximum of six (6) swimmers per shark is required.
There must be only one boat per whale shark.
If you are thinking of traveling to the Philippines to swim with whale sharks, I strongly recommend to go to Donsol and to AVOID whale shark tourism in Oslob.
In a perfect world, animals are left alone freely roaming the wild. However, we live in a world that is far from perfect and wildlife interactions oftentimes lead to destruction of wildlife ecosystems and habitats, in turn causing a decrease in animal population. These whale shark interactions in Donsol show that respecting wildlife is foremost in ensuring successful eco-tourism. Awareness and support for these ethical and sustainable programs and activities provides a positive impact on wildlife and their future.
If you would like to donate or adopt a whale shark, check out the WWF Adoption page here.
I hope this post helped you plan for your own whale shark adventure. So exciting! Let me know in the comments below what the best part of your adventure was.
