Winter Weekend Wandering in Banff: Ultimate 3-day Itinerary
SHARING IS CARING!
UPDATED POST: May 8, 2022
Looking to wander one winter weekend and don’t know where? Sit back, relax, enjoy that cup of tea and let me tell you where alpine dreams are made of. Banff is not only beautiful in the summer, it is truly magical in the winter! From its snow-capped mountains and majestic landscapes to its glistening frozen lakes, you truly feel like you are in an icy fairytale. This beautiful town was the first municipality in Canada to be incorporated inside a national park (Banff National Park). Yes, you read that right - inside a national park! Soooo cool!
Sulphur Mountain boardwalk view from building
Banff, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a 90-minute drive west from Calgary International Airport (airport code YYC) via the Trans-Canada Highway/AB-1. It is a bustling town of only about 10,000 residents and its picturesque location surrounded by rugged mountain terrain attracts around 4 million visitors each year. There are countless activities to do in Banff especially during the winter so it will be quite overwhelming to whittle down how to plan your weekend. In this post, I will help you maximize your ultimate Banff winter weekend with this 3-day itinerary (scroll down if you can’t wait to read it😁👇).
But first things first…
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO:
As of 5/2022, 1USD (US Dollar) = 1.29CAD (Canadian Dollar) - Because hotels and airport kiosks have poor exchange rates and high fees, try to convert your USD to CAD before your trip. Your local banks and credit unions usually offer the best conversion rates. We use a credit card with no foreign transaction fees whenever we travel but it’s still best to have some local currency on hand.
Although English is the main language in Banff, French is also widely spoken so you will see a lot of signage in both English and French.
In the winter, you will only have 8-10 daylight hours so it’s important to plan your day well.
Amazing view from our hotel room. That steam is from the outdoor heated pool which was heaven after a day of sightseeing :)
WHERE TO STAY
LUXURY
Fairmont Banff Springs - We stayed in this hotel for our winter weekend and loved it. I met up with my husband at the tail end of his business trip and since he got a good rate through his company, we decided to just stay here for the rest of the weekend. There are tons of activities/programs for kids, a bowling centre, an indoor and outdoor pool, hot tub, spa, shopping, and restaurants, that you don’t even have to leave the hotel (please do, there is so much to see outside!). This is a pet friendly hotel as well. If you are missing the fur baby you left at home, Fairmont Banff’s canine ambassador Bear (a black labrador) might just let you give him belly rubs. Their golf course is open seasonally from May-early October. If rates are not ridiculously high, we would probably stay here again when we go in the summer.
MID-RANGE
Moose Hotel and Suites - Centrally located, this family and pet-friendly hotel is a good value with all the amenities they offer - spa, indoor and outdoor pool, fitness center and bar/lounge. Wifi and parking are free and kids stay free (existing bedding).
BUDGET
Dorothy Motel - This family and pet-friendly motel is in a quiet location, away from the center of town. It is newly renovated, has free parking and wifi. It doesn’t have a pool though, but in the winter, this might not be a deal breaker.
What to do if you see larger-than-life letters on the side of the road? Why, take a picture, of course!
PACKING ESSENTIALS
1. Parka - Get one that is not too snug so that you could layer underneath. A waterproof mid/full-length one to cover more of the body is essential as winters here average between 4°F to -14°F. We hiked for over 3 miles in Johnston Canyon in -25°F temperature and had to wear a base layer set, thick leggings, a sweater AND a jacket underneath my parka. I could only zip my parka halfway up (eeeeeek!) so I suggest getting it slightly larger or maybe a thicker material so you don’t have to layer as much as I did.
2. Waterproof pants - Because I didn’t fancy walking around Banff in my baggy ski pants, I set off to find the perfect waterproof snow pants that are not only cute but could hold up to a day of skiing. I found my perfect pair in the Athleta glacier skinny snow pant. They are comfortable, thick, fleece-lined and completely waterproof. I was hesitant to buy them because of the price but they are soooo worth it. Unfortunately, these are sold out in Athleta but I found a similar one. This similar option is water repellant but I am not sure how it will hold up to skiing and snowboarding. Like the parka, get a pair that is not super snug so you can use base layers underneath. For our Johnston canyon hike, I had a base layer plus a fleece lined legging underneath the fleece lined waterproof pants.
3. Base layers - A must for snow trips. I have been using this midweight base layer top and bottom for a while and I love it. It is soft, warm, lightweight and has a UPF50+ rating against sun rays. Merino wool base layers are still the gold standard material for base layers but I personally have not tried them since the base layers I have seem to work pretty well.
4. Wool sweaters - Merino wool sweaters are warm, lightweight and resist odors well. They are good for layering and do not take up much suitcase real estate.
5. Snow boots/waterproof boots - For walking around town, I used this super lightweight and waterproof Grand Explore boot but I wasn’t sure it would provide the needed warmth for our icewalk tour so I brought my thicker Sorel boots too. The Sorel boots are a lot heavier but I didn’t mind the extra weight while hiking since warmth was more important to me. If you are purchasing a new pair for your trip, make sure to break them in prior to your trip.
6. Cold weather accessories (scarf, gloves, mittens, snow gloves, hat/beanie) - You will need these, trust me. Mittens are warmer than gloves because fingers produce more heat when they are not separated by fabric. 🎶 Elsa, do you want to build a snowman? 🎶 (points if you know where that song is from!) If you do plan to play in the snow, make sure you have snow gloves to prevent frostbite.
7. Hand warmers (Hot Hands) - Lifesavers!!! They last for 8-10 hours and kept us toasty warm all day. Stash an extra pair in your bag each day.
8. Wool socks - Wool has excellent insulating properties even when wet so your feet will stay warm and toasty while hiking in the winter. I normally layer socks (ankle socks underneath thick thermal socks) when it gets extremely cold.
9. Crampons - If you are attempting to do the Johnston Canyon Icewalk without a guide, you need to have crampons. These are traction devices to help you walk on snow and ice without slipping. These are similar to the ones we used from the tour.
10. Sunglasses - Snow and ice can create many reflective surfaces that increases the amount of bright light. Protect your eyes from the harsh light by wearing sunglasses whenever you are out for long periods of time.
GETTING AROUND BANFF
We did not rent a car. Living in the Bay Area, we only encounter snow probably 3-4 times during winter when we drive up to Lake Tahoe so I did not want to stress about having to drive in snow during our vacation. We instead relied on our hotel’s complimentary shuttle service to the town of Banff, Roam Transit buses, airport and ski shuttles, taxis, and good old-fashioned walking. Check out the Roam transit schedule here. If you are looking to drive, there are several rental car companies in and around Calgary airport. Choosing to drive would give you freedom to explore more areas and take better shots than this photo 👇😏
Busted! See the reflection in the photo? This was taken while in a moving bus 😬
Because you want to maximize your weekend trip, I would suggest to get to Calgary International Airport in the early morning. The earliest shuttle from the airport leaves at 930am so allow some time from your airport arrival to shuttle departure time. For weekend trips, we don’t check in luggage so we can get out of the airport as soon as we can to start our adventures. We took the Brewster Express airport shuttle to Banff and we were happy with them. The drivers were very informative and were equipped with a tour commentary, complete with corny jokes LOL. I am forgetting our funny driver’s name but I hope you get him when you go. Check their trip schedule and book your trip here.
Thrifty Tip
Booking roundtrip transfer tickets instead of separate one-way transfers will save you money. We saved 15% this way. Wootwoot! More money for poutine! LOL
Because the airport shuttle has multiple stops along the way, expect to arrive in Banff a little bit later, about two hours. If you prefer a straight shot to your hotel from the airport, there are taxis available in the airport to take you to your destination but be aware that the one-way fare from Calgary to Banff might be close to the cost of a roundtrip airport transfer for two people using the airport shuttles.
ENTRY FEES - BANFF NATIONAL PARK
*As of 5/2022, there are still closures and restrictions in the park to limit the spread of Covid-19.
An entry fee is required whenever you visit Banff since it is in a national park. As of 2022, the day pass fees are:
Adult (18-64) $10.50
Senior (65+) $9
Child/Youth (17 and below) FREE
Thrifty Tip
If you plan to visit Canada throughout the year, a Discovery Pass might be a better option since it gives you unlimited admission to over 80 Parks Canada parks.
Banff National Park has the most number of these wildlife crossing structures in the world. These crossings are designed to connect vital habitats and for animals to safely move across busy roads. These structures have reduced wildlife-vehicle collisions by more than 80%.
WEEKEND ITINERARY (FRIDAY-SUNDAY)
FRIDAY
Assuming you fly into Calgary early in the morning and leave Calgary airport by 930am, you can probably start your day at around 1230pm (after checking into your Banff hotel).
AFTERNOON
Stroll downtown Banff, grab lunch and shop for souvenirs
For weekend trips, I really like shopping for souvenirs and gifts the first day of the trip. This lets me pick out items I really want to purchase instead of being stuck with whatever’s available last minute. There are a number of souvenir shops along Banff Avenue which carry maple syrup, maple teas, maple cookies (yum!), ice wine, clothing, mugs, magnets, stickers, etc. (really, whatever you can think of)
Yes, sunnies would have been nice then…
For lunch, try Juniper Bistro (awesome views), Banff Poutine or Tooloulous.
The smoked meat was pretty tasty, we ordered a second one 😋
Try not to miss the snow sculptures that abound along Bear St. in the winter.
Catch a perfect sunset in Vermilion Lakes
A short 1.5 mile drive from the town of Banff takes you to the Vermilion Lakes. Here you will find a picture perfect winter sunset with Mount Rundle towering in the horizon.
Image by mckenzie toyne via Unsplash
If you’re lucky, you can see the stunning small pockets of bubbles in the frozen lake. Be careful and make sure the ice is thick enough to walk on. These “cool” (get it? I’m so full of corny puns today LOL) ice bubbles are methane bubbles formed in water from methane produced by bacteria in the bottom of the lake. These bubbles then rise to the surface and simply pop in the summer. In the winter, though, these bubbles are trapped on the surface when the lake freezes over. It makes for a pretty cool photo.
Image by David Wirzba via Unsplash
If you’re SUPER lucky, you might see the Northern Lights lighting up the night sky. The Northern Lights, also known as Aurora Borealis, are brought about by collisions between electrically charged gaseous particles from the sun that enter the Earth’s atmosphere. The type of gas particles released determine the color of the lights. The pale yellow green color, which is the most common, is produced by low-altitude oxygen molecules located 60 miles above the earth. High-altitude oxygen molecules (heights up to 200 miles) produce the rare, all-red auroras. Blue or purplish-red auroras are produced by nitrogen molecules.
Image by HyunKuk Kim via Unsplash
End the day with a “hoppy” dinner in a brewpub like Banff Ave Brewing Company or in our case, a hearty Italian dinner in Castello Italiana inside our hotel. Get plenty of rest since the next day will be a busy day.
SATURDAY
Start your day early (7am!😬) and grab a quick breakfast. Make sure you bring snacks and fill up your water bottle. STOCK Food and Drink (inside Fairmont Banff Springs) was our go-to for coffee, quick breakfast sandwiches and snacks during our trip.
MORNING
Explore Johnston Canyon Icewalk
We signed up for a tour with an experienced guide for safety reasons since we were not used to hiking in snowy and icy conditions. Our tour guide from Discover Banff Tours was so knowledgeable (shout out to Matt!) and just awesome. Dress warmly. Base layers (top and bottom), warm sweater, waterproof pants, waterproof jacket, waterproof boots, ankle socks, thick wool socks, as well as hats, gloves, mittens and thick scarf or neck warmer are ALL necessary if you are planning to hike this. It will be brutal putting one foot in front of the other for 2-2.5 hours (almost 3.5 miles) if you are cold and not dressed adequately. At the time of our trip, it was -25°F weather and any body part that was not covered was ice cold or covered in ice. Ok, maybe a little exaggerated but it was really cold, my feet felt like blocks of ice.
That’s not grey hair, you guys…
The hike was fairly easy with minimal elevation. The tour company provides crampons for you to wear to prevent slipping and falling. If you decide to do this activity without a guide, it is important to bring your own crampons or you could rent a pair from Banff Adventures in town.
The Upper Falls was a magnificent sight. As we were getting ready to leave, a few ice climbers were getting ready to climb up the frozen falls. It was such a cool and fascinating experience as this was something we don’t really see too often here in California. This is definitely a must-do when you are here in Banff.
If you joined a tour, you will arrive in Banff around noon. The tour guide will drop you off anywhere in Banff and you can choose to get dropped off to your next stop, the Banff Gondola.
AFTERNOON
You can choose to have lunch along Banff Avenue but I suggest to have lunch atop Sulphur Mountain in Sky Bistro. But first,
Gondola ride to Sulphur Mountain
*Ticket price varies based on projected visitation (dependent on season and time of day). It is cheaper to buy tickets online than in the terminal. Youth tickets (6-17) are cheaper than adult tickets. Children 5 and under are free, but must have a ticket. Wheelchair-accessible.
Winter Hours
January 9-20 Thurs–Mon: 11 AM – 5 PM
Tues-Wed: Closed
January 21-March 18 Thurs, Sun, Mon: 11 AM - 5 PM
Fri- Sat: 11 AM - 8 PM
Tues-Wed: Closed
*Note that the last ride up is 30 minutes prior to close and the last ride down is at closing time.
Yes, it was terrifying to be inside this glass-encased gondola going up almost 7500 feet to the top of the mountain. If you are deathly afraid of heights, this might not be the best experience for you. If you do decide to brave the elevation (wootwoot!), you will be rewarded with epic views.
Upon reaching the upper terminal, you will see the Summit Building which houses an interpretive center with interactive exhibits, a multi sensory theater, 2 restaurants, and a rooftop observation deck which offers 360 degrees of breathtaking views.
Before you explore the Summit building and Boardwalk, grab lunch in Sky Bistro.
Lunch in Sky Bistro
There is nothing better than eating with a view and in this case, a fantastic view of snow-capped mountains. Although the mesmerizing snowy vista is a huge part of the dining experience, the food definitely is not taking a back seat here. I don’t normally expect great food in touristy places like this but was I in for a delightful surprise. I tried bison and venison for the first time and the dishes did not disappoint. The menu was limited but had a nice variety with local ingredients and some vegetarian options. Sky Bistro sits on the summit of Sulphur Mountain and is accessible by the Banff Gondola.
Bison Tartare gets 👍👍
After a delicious lunch, walk off those lunch calories and explore the Gondola Summit Building and Sulphur Mountain Boardwalk.
There is an interpretive center with interactive exhibits, a multi sensory theater, 2 restaurants, and a rooftop observation deck which offers 360 degrees of breathtaking views. It is REALLY cold up here so you need to bundle up.
The Sulphur Mountain Boardwalk is a 0.6 mile self-guided interpretive boardwalk from the summit building which takes you to Sanson’s Peak and the Sulphur Mountain Cosmic Ray Station, a National Historic Site of Canada. Allow about 45 minutes roundtrip for the walk. Daylight hours in the winter usually range between 8-10 hours only and the sun usually sets between 430-5pm in those winter months. Try to catch the sunset before you leave. It is absolutely breathtaking.
Thrifty Tip
Book your gondola ride as soon as you know your dates. You will get the lowest rates when you book well in advance of your trip. Booking a date mid-week, or in the early/late season is also a great way to get a lower-priced ticket. Booking combo packages (dining and adventure/explorer packages) will also get you a great deal so if you are planning to visit other attractions in Banff anyway, book as a package to save money. Check out their current deals and packages here.
Is the gondola ride worth it?
Yes, this might be considered a tourist trap AND somewhat cost-prohibitive ($56-70 depending on season), BUT, it truly is a lovely experience. The views are phenomenal, the food (Sky Bistro) is wonderful and it is super accessible and effortless, even. So, if you are desiring accessibility, your time is limited and if the cost is not an obstacle, go for it.
Thrifty Tip
A lot of people don’t know but a one-way trip down on the Banff Gondola is available for half the price of admission. One caveat, though, is you have to hike up Sulphur Mountain and in the winter, this would mean snow and ice on the trail so appropriate winter hiking gear is essential. Get more information here.
Soak your tired muscles in Upper Hot Springs after that fun, exhausting day
If you are still up to it, try to check out the Upper Hot Springs since it is just a 7 minute walk from the gondola parking lot.
Single entry tickets (as of Jan 2021)
Adult (18-64) - $9.25
Youth (3-17) - $8
Child (Under 3) - Free
Senior (65+) - $8
Family (2 adults & 2 youth) - $29
Extra Youth - $5
Soaking in a hot spring surrounded by snow-capped mountains breathing in fresh, crisp mountain air, is the ultimate alpine experience. I can’t imagine anything better after hiking all morning. At 5200 ft elevation, the Upper Hot Springs in Banff is the highest hot spring in Canada. The springs are created by water flowing down from Mount Rundle and Sulphur Mountain. On it way down, the water picks up heat and minerals rendering the healing benefits of hot springs. Apart from reducing stress by helping your body relax, the sulfur-rich water is known to soothe skin irritations and infections such as eczema and rashes.
The Upper Hot Springs CAN get pretty crowded so if you don’t want to deal with the crowd, pray that your hotel’s pool is heated. We were lucky that the Fairmont had a heated outdoor pool with an amazing view of the mountains. When we weren’t adventuring or asleep, you would find us here.
SUNDAY
MORNING
It is roughly a 45 minute drive to Lake Louise from Banff. If you are taking the bus like we did, the Roam Transit bus departures in the morning are 730am and 930am. Time your trip according to your flight departure this afternoon/evening. Keep in mind that it will most likely be less crowded the earlier you get to Lake Louise.
Ice skating OR Sleigh ride on Lake Louise
Ice skating on Lake Louise will probably be one of the most stunning skating experiences you will have in your lifetime. The smooth glistening surface of the icy lake is set against a backdrop of the snow-covered mountains of the Canadian Rockies, or more specifically, the Alberta’s Rockies.
CNN Travel includes this frozen lake in their list of the “Ten Most Beautiful Ice Skating Rinks in the World”. It might seem “chilling” to step foot onto a frozen lake but there is no need to worry. Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, which fronts the lake, maintains and monitors its conditions all winter long. Ice skating season in Lake Louise is usually from mid-December to mid-April. It’s always best to check with the hotel before your trip to get ice updates. This is a frozen lake so it’s pretty bare-bones here — no handrails, no benches, no covered areas - so just be prepared. If you have your own skates, you can just glide on over and skate for FREE! If not, skate rentals are available in the lower lobby of the Fairmont Chateau at Alpine Social Rentals.
Again, do not forget your sunglasses…
If you could time your trip in January, try to do so to witness the annual Ice Magic International Ice Carving Competition in Lake Louise. It was a delight to see these exquisite sculptures and marvel at the delicate details and the talent involved in creating these masterpieces.
If ice skating is not really your thing, why not truly live out your winter wonderland fantasy and go on a sleigh ride around Lake Louise? The kids would surely love it!
Image by Tomasz Proszek via Pixabay
Allow 1.5 hours for this activity. Layer up and dress warmly. Tours are available throughout the day and reservations are recommended.
AFTERNOON
Lunch in Lakeview Lounge
After an activity-filled morning, enjoy some truffle honey duck wings (the best!) and some sweet spiced cider in Lakeview Lounge inside the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise.
See you again soon!
Unfortunately, after that delightful lunch, now is the time to say Au Revoir to Lake Louise and Banff. Leave your hotel 4 hours before your flight back home. That will give you plenty of time to think about when you will be coming back to Banff 😃
Yes, one weekend is definitely not enough to explore all that Banff has to offer but it is enough to make you fall in love with this resort town and keep coming back for more. So, are you heading to Banff? Take me with you please!!! Let me know if you have any questions about the itinerary and I will try to answer them for you. If this post helped you plan your trip, I would love if you could share it with friends and family!
